Rainy days

Yesterday I posted a very long blog but the computer did something strange and everything was lost. Anyway, yesterday we went to OCHA (Office of Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs) which is a UN office focused on the occupied territories of Palestine. They gave a wonderful presentation with maps indicating where the checkpoints, earth mounds, wall, and other obstacles that Palestinians face on a daily basis. It is amazing how people are denied the access of mobility within their own land. For example, one of the guys we met from Ramallah, is from a village next to Ramallah. Under normal circumstances, it would take 5-10 minutes to travel from Ramallah or his home village to Jerusalem, the holy city for 3 different religions. This guy, Muez, just turned my age--27--today and has never been to Jerusalem in his life. Can you imagine this? Sahar put it this way--it is as if you lived in Cairo and had never been to the pyramids. This is one of many of the myriad stories we have heard regarding how Palestinians are literally trapped in certain zones, often trapped from their families, their schools, hospitals, jobs, farmland, the list goes on and on. We have heard story after story of women who were denied passage through checkpoints even when they were about to give birth. We have heard about children who have had to drop out of school because they cannot get through a checkpoint or a wall prevents them from passing through.

After the UN, we went to Abu Dis, a suburb of Jerusalem where one of our Palestinian guides, Terry lives. I really need months to even begin to process writing about Terry and her stories of living under occupation. She is perhaps one of the strongest women I have ever met in my life. For example, the Israeli government is building the wall next to her house. Terry is consdiered a Jerusalemite (her identity card) but her husband's identity card says he is a West Banker. One night, the Israelis came and issued these cards--if you were not home, then you were not issued the Jerusalemite card. So, currently it is illegal for her husband to be in Jerusalem or Israel proper, which means it is illegal for him to live in his own house. This is difficult to explain so shortly but everything here seems to be confusing purposefully. Bureaucracy is one strategy that the Israeli government uses to control the Palestinians.

Later that night, we met with several Israeli peace activists. I personally have teared up many times since I have been here, but meeting these people and seeing the work that they do really just hit me hard. Three of the women represented different peace groups. One is called M'achom Watch which involves Jewish women who go to checkpoints every day to monitor the soldiers treatment of Palestinians. Another woman was from Women in Black, a group that we joined today in a protest, who are against the occupation and meet every Friday in the Jewish area of Jerusalem to protest peacefully in a busy intersection. The third woman is from the U.S. and is involved in the International Solidarity Movement which is involved in direct action against house demolitions of Palestinians, actions against the construction of the wall, and much more. The fourth activist was named Jimmy who is also Jewish and from Chicago. He works with the Israeli Coalition Against House Demolitions, where they work on many projects involving direct action, education, and advocacy regarding the house demolitions of Palestinians. There have been over 4,000 Palestinian homes bulldozed by the Israeli government since 2000, which means that 23,000 (i think this is right--i need to check my notes) people have been made homeless. One of the crazy things about the demolitions is that many of them are demolished by US equipment.

Keep in mind that our tax money is going to all of this. The US provides Israel 3 billion a year, not including 10 billion in guaranteed loans, as well as other military provisions. Israel/Palestine is roughly the size of New Jersey. Gaza Strip is the most densely populated area in the world. Fortunately, the people here as well as many of the international people we have met are smart enough to judge a government apart from its people. But this doesn't excuse Americans to be ignorant or inactive regarding this issue. I guess both the injustice and human rights violations are really enough for me to feel connected to this place, but we as people from the US are interwoven with this area because of the massive funding for this tragedy.

I have taken tons of excellent photos and cannot wait to share the stories that I have heard. Well, actually I can wait because this place is very magical and insane at the same time.

Also, if my mom is reading this, don't be surprised when I move to Ramallah someday. Don't worry--it is considered the "city of intellectuals" here in the West Bank.

Please keep writing your emails and posting your thoughts. Thank you to those who have been supportive of me being here and learning alongside me. Besides all of the intensity of such a trip, I have been amongst a very sababa -cool- group of people. Kara and I have been processing our trip and shaking our heads a lot. Ronnie and Monica, both NVC students, are learning a lifetimes worth in the past few days and keeping us entertained and sane. Sahar makes us all laugh and keeps us up late during the night dancing to Palestinian music and talking about life. The two grannies-Mitzi and Marie-crack us up with their wit and charm but also understand this situation. As Marie put it best "those damn soldiers." Sometimes the most simplest assessment of this situation is often the most accurate. Mohammed has been sharing stories and information that we are fortunate to be privy to. Ann has touched all of us with her own stories of how this story is connected to the United States. Rashida and Vicki have been learning throughout the week and determined to take this message back to their communities in Seattle. And all of the wonderful people we have met at our hotels, our guides, Terry, the drivers, the people from Ramallah, the peace activists, the children at Terry's school, the people in the markets, the people in the street. It is amazing to me how people who are living under occupation still are so kind and full of life. I suppose that will is another form of resistance.

Salam,
Shelley